We went to the train station in the morning to buy our tickets to Moscow (by going back through Moscow we bypass Belarus and the evil visa). We took the Metro to the Peter and Paul Fortress. The rain beat down on us (and beat us down) and overall I was disappointed by the fortress. The prison (and torture chamber) was closed, there were no English brochures (plenty of French though so I pretended to translate it for our general amusement because we all know my French skills are worse than my Russian at this point). It was awful weather for walking along the walls (bastions?). The SS Peter and Paul Cathedral was interesting, but not because of the architecture or frescos. All of the Tsars since Peter the Great are buried there (they are actually in sepulchers though and not buried). Kri and I eavesdropped on some tour groups to learn a bit of Russian History:

Peter I (the Great) decided to build St. Petersburg in the early 18th century (on a swamp which is why I mosquito bitten). He was married but sent his first wife to Novodivichy Convent (we visited it in Moscow). He then married Catherine I. We aren’t sure if his first wife died, if he divorced her or if he was just a bigamist. (When told all of this I said “He couldn’t have been all that great if he sent his wife to a convent”). Their daughter was Elizabeth. I’m not sure who she was married to but she must have been a Tsarina because the Golden Eagles of the Tsar were on the corners of her Sepulcher (non-Tsar/Tsarina royalty don’t get the golden eagles but still get sepulchers). Sometime later came Peter II who was married to Catherine II. When Peter II died Catherine assumed the throne and added “The Great” to her name. Both Alexander I, II and Nicholas I are there as well as the remains of Nicholas II and his family which were moved from Yekaterinberg.

We wanted to see Lenin’s Rolls Royce which had been on display recently. It was in another location though (state secret). Very disappointing.

After dinner at a great Russian restaurant called Shuri-Muri (we ate caviar!!!) we went to Lyod’s Ice Bar. We each got a coat (with mittens and hood) as well as boots in the entrance room. We went in and it was amazing. The walls, ceiling, tables, bar, and bench were all made out of ice! There were flowers frozen into the tables and bottle frozen into the walls (I suppose hanging a picture on ice would be difficult). We had an amazing time dancing around. Ruan had a black Russian in an ice cup and I had hot mull wine!

I think the traveling to starting to wear me down a bit. I was pretty cranky and slow this morning (a filthy shower didn’t improve my mood).

We went to VDNK which Ruan had described as “some old communist buildings” but ended up being absolutely amazing. During the Soviet Era the government had built beautiful, huge monuments to various groups and countries in the Union. Now the whole area is like a park with flowers, fountains, restaurants and shops. It was a beautiful sunny Saturday and tons of Moscovites were out enjoying themselves. It was a very festive atmosphere. People were biking, rollerblading, sitting in the sun, lunching. It was most light-hearted I have seen Russians be (so far).

St. Basil's Cathedral in Moscow

Some general complaints about Russian tourism and sightseeing places:
1.The entry fees are so high! It’s like Japan, which is ridiculous because it’s Russia!
2.Charging to enter a working church? What ever happened to being able to worship freely? HA! Not if you are a tourist in Russia. (I will grant that I am not Russian Orthodox, so I am not going to worship. Christina on the other hand is Russian Orthodox and would like to worship, but she has to pay $5 to get in and pray just like the rest of us).
3.If I paid (an exorbitant) entry fee I shouldn’t have to pay another $5 to take pictures. I understand not allowing pictures of frescos that are degraded by flash, but to pay for taking pictures of gardens or the outside is ridiculous.
4.Different prices for foreigners and locals. Grrrr. It’s like they are admitting to ripping us off.
5.Crowds! Ack!

We went to breakfast at McDonald’s (evil I know, but I ate Blinis which are Russian pancakes). The McD’s is very popular, there is even a walk-up window outside since people don’t have cars. Lots of lines, so we felt very Russian. Until the handed us the English menus.

We went to Red Square and waiting an hour and a half in the freezing rain to see Lenin’s Mausoleum. It was a very complicated process and involved us checking out bags for 60 rubles and running every which ways at the command of scary Russian police officers. I was very impressed with the Mausoleum though. They let fewer people in at a time and you are fairly close to the body (compared to Mao in Beijing). The whole thing was very solemn and respectful. It didn’t feel like forced propaganda the way it did in China. After though we were so wet that we sat in Sbarro’s pizza for ages to eat, warm-up and dry-off (the last 2 didn’t work too well). We eventually ventured to Saint Basil’s Cathedral which is amazingly beautiful, inside and out. The inside is small and old but full of lots of little rooms and narrow passages (and a million tourists). There was an acapella group singing hymns that echoed off the walls and ceilings as we explored.



We walked the long way around the Kremlin and by the time we got there it was near closing time (and the armory tickets were sold out). Ruan and I went back to the hostel to dry out (followed by drinks and nachos at Hard Rock).

Spent the morning reading Gulliver’s Travels, staring out the window and playing scrabble with Ruan. We arrived in Moscow at 6pm. There were so many people it was a bit overwhelming.



The difference between Irkutsk and Moscow is night and day. Irkutsk is a back-water country town where exiles were sent. That can still be felt. Moscow is a huge, bustling, “cool” city (although it is a bit scary and very dirty). We took the Metro to our hostel, Sweet Moscow, very conveniently located on Arbat Street, across from Hard Rock Café and surrounded by a million restaurants. Our first time in a dorm with other people on this trip. We met Mike (from our Baikal trip) and a guy named Will from England and all went to Happy Hour at the Hard Rock.

On the train from Irkutsk to Yekaterinberg

Woke up in time to walk around the platform of Ishim. Sleepy little town, but it was only 7am local time. I have spent much of the time on the train catching up on my journal and planning what to do in Yekaterinberg, Moscow and St. P. I haven’t planned the trip at all past St. P. I’m a bit worried because I like to have a plan (or at least an idea of what my plan would be if I were to get my act together and make a plan). Don’t even know what cities we are visiting, just the countries.

We got into Tyumen at 9:38am Moscow time. It is supposed to be the most affluent city in Siberia (lots of oil equals lots of money). Lenin’s body was hidden here during WWII. From the platform it looked suspiciously like every other Russian city I’ve seen so far.



Larisa met us at the train station in Yekaterinberg and drove us to the apartment. We walked to an internet place which was locked up so we went next door to the “American Pizza House” (decorated with scenes of Times Square and serving mediocre pizza). We tried to check out internet at a shop bizarrely named “My Beauty Cafe.” There were 3 non-working computers and a tanning bed. Weird stuff in Russia.

Woke up in the middle of the night and had a battle with a baby cockroach. He kept running around a pipe, but I finally got him—death by conditioner bottle.

After a 3 train ride we hiked an hour to the cabin. It is right on the edge of Lake Baikal. The day was perfect. We sat by the water and hiked over to a nearby tunnel for the Circum-Baikal Railroad.



After lunch we went rock climbing. Ruan did really well. I was a bit nervous but ended up loving it. I was so focused on getting to the top that I forgot to be nervous or scared. Once I reached the top I was so pumped full of adrenaline. I felt so alive and high (literally and figuratively; emotionally and physically). I suddenly understood adrenaline junkies and the crazy things they do. I felt so good and proud of myself.

After climbing we went back to the cabin and Migheil, Ruan and I jumped into the lake. They say that if you put your hands in you add 1 year to your life, your feet add 5 years and if you jump in you add 20 years. I talked Migheil into jumping in a second time with me. I don't think it was much colder than Tahoe, but it was still cold. It felt good though, it stopped my muscles from aching, it stopped the mosquito bites from itching and made me feel fresh and alive.


Swimming at Lake Baikal...brrrr!

As we pass field after field of wild flowers, gloriously grand open spaces I see a lone horseman on the ridge of the hill. His red vest is vivid against the clear sky. The tail of his horse blows in the wind and he gallops on. Soon we pass him and other mountains and fields come into view. Scattered Gers drift into sight and then are gone. Herds of cows, sheep, horses, and even a few camels fly past. The open spaces are romantic and make me wonder if this is how America looked before the settlers started West.

There is something raw about this land. It is undeveloped, unspoiled, untouched. Compared to China's development frenzy and lively new energy, Mongolia almost seems backward. But is is just a slower, older way of life. Modernity has not made its mark here yet. I see signs of its imminent arrival in the roads being paved, the Japanese cars being driven and the people dressed in American brands. But its not here yet and I can still appreciate the sight of the lone cowboy on the ridge.


Something I wasn't expecting to see... I suppose it's as good a way as any to transport camels.


Mongolian ruins


Our host family at Lake Ogyi.

Still on the train....

They eat what in China?

Beijing

We walked to Tiannammen Square. It is incredible to stand there and look at how much China has changed in the last 17 years. The people are all stylishly dressed, everyone is carrying digital cameras and madly snapping pictures. The police we saw all looked like they were having a laugh-- they were the least serious group of police I have ever seen. They were joking around, smiling, smoking cigarettes, lots of them had their uniforms half off or unbuttoned. It is such a different view of China than the tanks and soldiers killing students. I think only now, being here, am I starting to see the Chinese as individuals and not a large, faceless suppressed populus. Not that the Chinese government is free of criticism-- but being here I can see the things they are doing to make their nation better. I suppose this is a prime example of why travel is an integral part of international and cultural understanding.


The Forbidden City