Vietnam is incredible. We arrived in Danang yesterday and drove to Hoi An for some shopping and an incredible Vietnamese lunch (I'm in love with Vietnamese food). The architecture is really great, lots of French influence. After lunch (and more shopping) we went to a school opening. The 43rd voyage of Peaceboat raised a lot of money and was able to help this school build new classes (the old ones were falling apart). Lay Li Hayslip helped to organize the whole thing and we went as representatives of Peaceboat. The school was nice and new and the kids were sweet and excited. We passed out presents of notebooks and pencils to them. It was amazing though because the school was really simple, big classrooms with nothing but a chalkboard and 3 kids crammed into every desk. Yet they were excited and happy by it. Americans really don't understand how the rest of the world lives.

After the school opening we went into Danang to chat with students from the University and take part in a demonstration against the US government. It was a demonstration asking the US government to give reparations and apologies to the victims of Agent Orange. It was the first demonstration in Vietnam that has been given a permit by the goverment and was legal. It was really amazing to be taking part in something that revolutionary. After the rally we went back to Hoi An (my favorite city ever) by motorbike. There was a group of 10 of us on the back of these motorbikes and it was hilarious as we raced eachother. The trip took about 45 minutes and while motorbike may not be the most comfortable way to travel it is definitely one of the most fun (right behind elephant rides, bamboo rafts and piggy back rides). We stayed in an incredible hotel that was $5 a night. They loaned us bicycles and we rode around town.

Today was shopping shopping shopping. I had a dress, a shirt and an Aozai (traditional clothing) made as well as some shoes. I can't believe we only get 2 days here, I can't wait to come back!

Wandering around ports has been a little odd for me. On the boat I am getting use to saying hello to every person I pass, smiling, sitting with strangers at meals and striking up conversations. People communicating in a variety of languages, and even mixtures of various languages. In ports people aren’t as friendly; many of those things aren’t an option. I miss that while in port. The Peaceboat (despite being enormous with 1,000 people onboard) is such a small little community. It’s a very safe environment. I almost start to forget what the real world is like. Then in port I’m a bit stunned by it all.

Blogging from a boat
I’m sitting in a little room that is even with the water in a giant ship that is a representation of the world. Or perhaps the world the way we would like it to be: friendly, cooperative, motivated, excited and happy. This ship is definitely full of optimists, people who truly believe the world’s problems can be fixed. I didn’t realize how cynical I had become about the problems in the world. Maybe I was being a realist, but I don’t think that the people I am surrounded by are crazy idealists. They believe peace is an obtainable option, given enough effort. And I guess that is what is moving me away from my cynicism—realistic solutions to problems. Things that are obtainable and do-able for an individual. Allen told me today that peace is like going to the moon. Someone imagined it, lots of people doubted it, but it became a reality. He said that if people think about peace it also can become a reality.
P.S. Thanks to everyone who donated books for the Sri Lankan school. We are going to auction them off to passengers on the ship. The passengers will write a note inside the books, maybe even their address, give the books back to us and we will give them to the school/orphanage/community center. We will also be able to give them the money we fundraise. It is an awesome event and will make a huge difference.

WOW WOW WOW! Amazingness in a boat!

The last few days (week? I'm not sure how long I've been on the boat now) has been incredible. hectic and busy because we are planning a lot of programs, organizing the english program, designing lesson plans, interviewing students, learning, holding events... utter craziness. But utterly satisfying because the people I am working with actually get things done. They say they will do it, and it happens. Brilliant. After Singapore I am told everything will calm down a bit into a schedule of some kind.

DID I MENTION I AM IN HONG KONG AND LOVE IT!!!!

Two nights ago a Vietnam vetern, Allen Nelson, gave a lecture that was incredible. He talked about his experiences in Vietnam, he talked about his views on America as an occupying country. He urged the Japanese people to support Article 9 of their constitution. It was an amazing lecture and he ended it with a song "Down by the River" and everyone sang and it was an incredible sense of community and energy and love. One of the great things about peaceboat though is that I didn't just go to the lecture and go home. I pass Allen in the bar or a restaurant I sit down and chat with him. I've gotten to know him as a person and not just a lecturer. We talk about horses and growing up and random stuff as well as the peace activism he is doing. He is such a brave person to have experienced what he did and then confront it and use it as a way to spread a message of peace. He is going back to Vietnam on the peaceboat for the first time since he was in the war.

Last night 2 Iraqis who are onboard gave a talk. They talked about the constant terror and violence that they face. They talked about all the people in their lives that have died senseless deaths. I don't think there were many dry eyes in the audience. The man is only 25, a year older than me and yet he has lived through 3 wars in his life. The woman is a doctor and when she spoke there was so much pain, suffering, anger and even hatred in her voice. I felt horrible to be an American. To know that people from my country had caused her pain. I went up to her after the talk in the bar after I thought I had stopped crying. I introduced myself, thanked her for her strength in coming to speak with us and apologized. She said that she, and most Iraqis differentiate between American people and American government/military, and that she doesn't hate the American peope. I started to cry again and she wrapped her arms around me and have me a hug. It was an incredible experience. On a slightly different note I have been thinking a lot about the idea of collective guilt. Why is it that people feel guilty for actions that their goverment (or even ancestors) took, when they as individuals had no control. I feel guilty on a personal level for many things that American goverment has done that I could not have stopped. Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

I watched the movie Heaven and Earth last night (directed by Oliver Stone). It's a really incredible movie. Lay Li Hayslip, the author of the book that the movie is based on (and really it is just her life story) is getting on the boat in Hong Kong (today) and is going to be giving several lectures. I'm also signed up on a tour that she is going to be leading in Vietnam, so I will have many opportunities to speak with her. I'm so blown away and inspired by the strength of the people around me.

How do you fit a hundred million events, people, thoughts and emotions into a short blog? I want to somehow express what I am feeling and experiencing, but I don’t have the ability to put it into words. I am feeling overwhelmed, happy, creative, excited, sad, adventurous, involved… and so many other things. Days fly by so quickly I don’t think I blinked, but a hundred things happened.

May 21 was our departure day from Yokohama. After helping the passengers carry on their bags and passing champagne out to all the guests we joined them to celebrate. The scene was like something out of a movie only, because it was real life, infinitely more poignant. We threw streamers to the people waiting on shore, each person holding one end. We waved and cheered and danced and drank champagne. As the boat pulled away they played our departure song and we all hugged and cried. The streamers were pulled out of people’s hands and our connection with the people left on shore was ended. It was incredibly emotional to be starting such an amazing journey and everyone on the ship could feel that excitement. But everyone is leaving someone behind for 3 months (husbands, girlfriends, friends, parents, children, etc) and so there is also sadness. As soon as I get settled into life on the ship I will hopefully be less overwhelmed and have more understanding of what I am feeling and experiencing. Even as I type this, with the boat rocking back and forth and the sound of the waves outside, it feels surreal. I’m not sure when that will change though.

On another note- my seasickness has disappeared (actually as soon as we left port and started moving forward I was fine). No one has been very sick yet and we are the roughest patch of water we are going to find on the whole trip. Let’s keep our fingers crossed anyhow.

I don't even officially start my job until tomorrow (4 more hours without insurance) and my boss already thinks I lied. Apparently during the interview they asked me if I get sea sickness. Of course I don't. I am strong and have great sea legs and would never succumb to something as silly and embarrassing as sea sickness. I'm sure that during the interview I confidently assured my future employers of this fact. So I guess maybe I did lie. I stepped onto the ship this morning and within the first minute was starting to feel ill. After an hour I felt like I was living in "Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas." Colors and shapes were blurring together, the world was rocking, the angles were all wrong and people stopped making sense. I got off the boat for lunch and things started to connect in the proper ways; I got back on the boat and was immediately sucked into a twisted version of Hunter S. Thompson's mind. I am assured that everyone adjusts to the motion within a few days, lets all cross our fingers because it's a long swim home.

Other than feeling a bit like Dorothy, the boat is awesome awesome awesome! My room is much bigger than I expected (it's like a football stadium, only smaller). I have 2 roommates- 1 from Mexico and one from Japan. My Mexican roommate is the Spanish Teacher and told me "Mi casa solo Espanol." (despite my bad spelling it means I'm only supposed to speak Spanish in the room... we'll see). The people onboard are amazing(the crew are from 28 different countries). There are 2 swimming pools, a jacuzzi, a basketball court, a theatre, numerous restaurants and no shortage of bars or happy hours (although the happy hours start tomorrow so no details yet...coming soon). I taught a demo lesson today and it was such a nice feeling to be teaching again, it's only been a few weeks since I last taught but it seems like ages. The students were really motivated and excited. Tomorrow is the departure and we get to throw streamers overboard and wave to the people we are leaving (I'm going to wave to strangers and pretend they are my friends and family). It will be like a movie scene (complete with champagne parties). It would really be hard to describe how I feel right now. I'm so excited and happy and nervous and overwhelmed. It's incredible though. A really wonderful feeling.

I won't be updating my blog much because I would have to sell a kidney to afford the internet on the ship (I've become rather attached to my kidneys and don't really want to say good-bye) . So please excuse the lack of blogging action (I haven't fallen overboard) and the tardiness of e-mail replies (I don't hate you). I would love to receive mail though (hint hint hint). And if anyone is going to be in a port around the same time as me drop me a line because I would love to see you!

The Journey Begins.....

I'm back, but for such a short time. Thailand was great, but after 2 weeks I was ready to come back to Japan. After a few lovely, lovely days in Fukui I came to Tokyo for some orientating. I'm so excited about the Peace Boat now. After spending 2 days with the other English teachers and translators and coordinators I was bouncing around with anticipation. Everyone I'm going to be working with is wonderfully creative, energetic, funny and genuinely nice. They all truly want to make a difference in the world and the amazing thing is that they are the kind of people who individually are doing something about it. Making a difference. It is incredibly inspiring and I think after 3 months of being under their influence I will be a much different (and hopefully better) person. Sunday night there was a fundraiser to raise money to build a new wing for an orphanage in Sri Lanka. The fundraiser was incredibly fun (they had Salsa and belly dancing, and everyone was dancing), educational (slideshows) and meaningful.

I am staying with a friend in Chiba for a few more days. Friday I move onto the ship and Saturday I am going to sail around the world. I only see one problem with all of this- I am quickly running out of superlatives to describe how incredibly amazing my life is right now. Anyone who has some new words for me to use, feel free to contribute.

Carissa vs. The Centipede
(a story that I only wish was a work of fiction)

Something crawling toward me. I hear screams and profanities. I realize they are coming out of my mouth. I am standing in the middle of the room jumping up and down. Still screaming. Must stop. The centipede has slithered under my crumpled blanket. I am shaking. I am bigger than this insect. I can conquer! Where the hell is that bugspray? DEET! I need large quantities of DEET. Are centipedes poisonous? Think! Think! I rack my brain and come up blank. All I can think is: big, nasty bug in the place I am supposed to sleep. Slowly I lift the bedspread and start shooting DEET like the American Army bombing Baghdad. Shock and Awe. The centipede is less impressed than Saddam and scurries under the matress. Something touches my arm and I jump. Almost scream but contain myself at the last second. It's the towel hanging on the wall. Sigh of relief. Still shaking though. Want to sleep. I paid for this room! Contemplate sitting in the lobby all night but I need sleep. How can I sleep with a centipede that is most likely seeking revenge. Still can't decide if they are poisonous. Try to lift the mattress but it's too heavy. Obviously filled with rocks. Or a lot of centipedes. My skin is crawling at the thought. Mosquito bites itch like crazy. Where is the evil centipede? It's like a game of hide and seek. I'm losing. I kick the mattress a few times. Nothing. It will not be scared out of hiding. I will build a barricade of DEET around my mattress. Nothing will make it through alive. Will I? This stuff is toxic. Take shallow breaths. Where is that bugger? I imagine every other insect scurrying away from my personal gas chamber. Now I will sleep in my DEET fortress. Goodnight centipede, goodnight.

Bangkok is gobs of fun. On the way up here I met a couple from England (Braintree actually, and I knew where that is- in Essex). They have been to Bangkok a few times before and have been showing me around. Brilliant. I'm staying in a cool guesthouse that is not at all sketchy and has no mosquitos (it's an obsession now). We went to some cool bars and some "interesting" bars last night. Today we went to the weekend market which just went on and on forever and ever. I don't think we even saw half of it and we were there for 4 hours. So much shopping. I don't have a clue how I am going to carry it all home. Tomorrow is my last day and I am going to see more of Bangkok than bars and markets. No more shopping. Really. Well, maybe starting tomorrow (the night is young). Although, I secretly suspect that most of Bangkok is made up of bars and markets. Tomorrow will be educational.

I have found paradise. Ko Chang is so beautiful I never want to leave. Yesterday I signed up for a snorkeling trip/boat trip to 3 of the other islands around Ko Chang. They were great. The first stop had a picturesque beach with white sand, palm trees and perfect blue water. The snorkeling wasn't stunning (beautiful coral but not many fish) but the beach was great. The second stop we just went swimming and laid around on the beach. The third stop though had great snorkeling. The island could barely be called an island (I think it might entirely disappear at high tide). The coral was spectacular and there were stacks of fish though (I saw squid, sea cucumbers, sea anenomes, sea urchins, amond a million other things). The fish are use to being fed by the boats that come so they just crowded around us. It was great riding around on a boat all day just relaxing and taking in the scenary. I met 5 JETs on the boat and hung out with them all day. It's funny how much you can have in common with strangers. But we are all from America and have all been in Japan teaching English for about the same amount of time. It was a lot of fun (and much less lonely than enjoying the scenary by myself).

On a side note- I am very happy that I decided not to go to Cambodia on this trip. I'm sure it would have been fine, and I am still dieing to see Ankor Wat, but my new JET friends told me some stories about their adventure that made me think doing it alone would have been stupid. They had a great time, but said that if there weren't a group it would have been terrifying at certain times. So Cambodia will have to wait until another trip.

Just 2 more days on the beach and then off to Bangkok...

I am a terrible "backpacker". It's not that I mind roughing it (I did spend 3 days in the jungle and loved it), it's more I see no reason to rough it when there is a nice luxury hotel nextdoor. So yesterday I arrived in Koh Chang (a beautiful little island) and took the cheapest accomodation I could find (which was still almost as much as Gap's House). It was a quaint little bungalow, with a mattress, a mosquito net, an electric fan, one light bulb (although there is only electricity from 6pm-6am) and a toilet. It wasn't so much anything in the hut was bad, it was the mosquito infestation that really got to me. I would get up to go to the bathroom and as I dumped water down the toilet (no flushing) the mosquitos would come at me in droves. I would run and dive back under the mosquito net, and inevitably a few followed me and so then I would be sitting inside the mosquito net trying to kill bugs and spraying bug spray everywhere. By this morning I couldn't take it (it didn't help that some drunk guy tried to walk into my bungalow at 4am, giving me a heart attack and the guys next door lost their key and made lots of noise before passing out on their porch). So this morning I got up, went to the beach for a few hours and then moved into the beautiful hotel across the street that has air conditioning, hot water, flushing toilets, a porter to carry my bags, a huge clean bed, and not a mosquito in sight! I feel so much more relaxed to be be staying someplace clean and safe. Which means that while I am the worst "backpacker" ever, I'm having a lot more fun today. Future plans on the island-- lay in the sun, swim, drink beer, rent a scooter to ride around the island and go snorkeling. Did I mention lay in the sun?

I met some people while hanging around Gap's House and they invited me to go along with them in a van they rented to Doi Suthep. I wasn't really sure what to expect even though a bunch of people had told me it was the one place in Chang Mai I had to visit. It was amazing. We took the van up a huge mountain, along really steep roads and I was so thankful for the air conditioning. We got to the top of the mountain and had to walk up 306 steps (I'm not sure of the significance but everyone kept telling me the number of steps) to the top. There was a beautiful gold plated pagoda and lots of buddhas everywhere. I did a fortune teller thing where you make a wish, shake a box full of sticks and the stick that falls out tells your fortune. My fortune said that I will have good luck and will get my wish but must be patient. Happiness. We went to lunch after Doi Suthep and then when we were dropping off the monk who is friends with the people I met (from Arizone, the people not the monk) we were invited inside to have our fortunes read. They had our birthdays and looked things up in books and made charts and then told me that I will have very good luck for the next 3 years, I will be a rich woman and I will be happy anywhere in the world I choose to live. They said that I shouldn't be a teacher though, it isn't the best profession for me. They also gave me some lotto numbers to use next time I play the lotto. Perhaps that is how I become a rich woman. It was quite fun. The whole day was very educational because the people who took me are devout buddhists and could explain all the traditions and rituals to me (Theravada Buddhism, which is practiced in Thailand, is very different from the sects of Buddhism practiced in Japan). Lovliness. I am enjoying traveling alone. I have met so many interesting people and I think that I wouldn't have met a lot of them if I had someone to talk to (we all know how I love to talk).